receiving your Rail Dogs you may need to use a wrench to loosen the
bolt. Loosen the bolt about one turn and then slide the bolt head into
the groove on the bottom of the rail. Make sure the lip on the Rail Dog
is sitting inside the groove on the guide rail. Do this with both dogs.
Decide which holes on the table top you wish to use (try to use holes
that are slightly farther apart than the length of board being cut) and
slide the dogs to that distance and install the guide rail onto the
table. Allow the guide rail to sit flat on the bare table top and reach
underneath the table to hand tighten the Rail Dogs. No need to go
beyond hand tight and it is not recommended go beyond hand tight
because it may damage the rail.
If your Rail Dogs fit the holes with a little bit of slop (such as when
you have a newer table top that has 20.15 mm holes), push or “squeeze”
the Rail Dogs towards each other before tightening. This will make the
Dogs “center” to the sides of the holes and reduce the amount of slop.
Think of it like 2 bolts, 1/4 inch diameter. If you center the bolts in
the 20 mm holes, you will have lots of slop. If you push the bolts
towards each other until they hit the edges of the holes, most of the
slop will disappear since the bolts will center to the edges of the
holes. Testing on my newer MFT table with the dogs separated the full
length of the table, I measured slop at less than 1/128 of an inch.
You can now slowly raise the rail by pushing up on the dogs from
underneath the table or by grasping the guide rail close to where the
dogs are installed. Slide you work piece underneath the guide rail,
align the work piece and lower the guide rail onto it. Make your cut
and you are done.
It may help on shorter widths of cuts to install some scrap pieces of
the same thickness as the workpiece under the extreme ends of the guide
rail to avoid any bowing or tipping of the guide rail and making
deep cuts into your table top.
While testing I realized the Rail Dogs depend on using the holes in the
table top. This reduces the maximum cutting lengths significantly (less
than 22 inches). What is needed are 20 mm holes on the outside of the
table, holes in the air. I started with some 2x2 lumber and cut 2
pieces to the same length as the width of the guide rail. Next is to
add the Rail Dog hole. I went with 3/4 inch hole and sanded it to 20 mm
which can take a couple minutes to sand. A 20 mm drill would speed
things up. You can actually drill a 13/16 hole and it will work fine.
If you turn the hole into an open slot, the rail can swing up. I
drilled 2 holes for 5/16 inch T Slot bolts to mount the block on the
MFT side profile. I'm using 2 bolts to keep the 2x2 parallel with the
rail. You could get away with using only 1 bolt.
problem with the 2x2 blocks are they sit much lower than the table top.
utilize the Rail Dogs, I need something sitting flush with the table
I experimented with one 4x4 block. The Rail Dog only needs 1/2 - 1 inch
of wood to seat good, so I cut off the rest of the block under the Rail
Dog hole. Next, my T slot bolts weren't long enough to fit through a
4x4 block, so I cut out for that. With the 4x4 extra depth, I can mount
it flush to the table top. With one block and using my original 2x2
Hole Extension on the rear, I increased cutting capacity to 33 1/2
inches. Using two of these 4x4 blocks should easily bring it up to 36
inches or 54 inches on the long side of the table.
Here you can
see the Rail Dog
installed on the
Here you get a
side view of the
set up before
cutting a 2x4.
underneath of the
of the MFT table
where you can
see the Rail Dog
It is easier to
tighten or move
the Rail Dogs by
grabbing it here.
Here is a setup
getting ready to
cut 3/4 inch
You can see I
still have my MFT
Guide rail installed
and I’m using a
Closer view of last picture.
You can see the (polished aluminum) Qwas Dogs being used to align the